Climbing Mount Bogong (Warkwoolowler)

Elevation:  1,986 metres    Nearest towns:  Mount Beauty

Difficulty:  Medium/Hard   Date[s] climbed: 13/12/2009    Location:  Victoria    Author: Graeme

                                                                                                              Bogong imperiously challenging we mortals

Most people have heard of Mt Bogong, either as a mountain somewhere in the Australian Alps, or as the place where those pesky moths that seem to appear in plague numbers every year, come from. The Aboriginal people used to gather here to collect the moths for feasts and ceremonies. Brian and I had heard a few things about Bogong as well, and mostly the word was “steep”. So, on a fine weekend we set off for Mt. Beauty, which is the nearest town to Mt. Bogong. On this trip there were 3 of us, including Brian’s son Kadison.

Warning

The usual warnings apply to alpine mountains. It can snow or white out at any time of the year. People have died on this mountain. Best climbed late Spring through early Autumn.

History

A work in progress. Very hard to find anything on the web at this stage.

The Climb

On arrival at Mt. Beauty, we drive out to the base of Mt. Bogong to check out the access for the climb. You can camp at the Mountain Creek picnic ground and begin the walk there along the fire trail, or it is possible to drive along the fire trail to the base of the staircase spur, or even continue to the Eskdale track if you wish to. The fire trail has a number of creek crossings easily done in a 4WD or SUV, but I believe it closes in winter conditions. We have decided to go up the Staircase spur, and down the Eskdale, thus completing a loop and not retracing our steps.

The next morning is fine, with positive weather predicted for the climb. Weather is very important for this climb, as the alpine nature of Bogong means that conditions can deteriorate and become threatening at any time of the year. Proper alpine equipment and an emergency plan are mandatory; T-shirts and garbage bags for protection as reported in a recent article about Bogong, only endanger the climber, and their potential rescuers.

We set out to be at the start of the Staircase track at first light and after the compulsory pre climb photos we are away. The Staircase lives up to its reputation as being steep and constantly up. However, the track is very well marked, and it appears that in places the strategically fallen trees are suggestive of rest intervals. Up, up, up, but the surrounding Alpine Ash are very picturesque, and good conversation is the Panadol of walking, easing both pain and distance.

I always know when the going gets tough, as conversation flags as we concentrate on breathing and one foot after another. The Staircase silences us a couple of times! However, just as we are discussing when the really tough part of the staircase (of which we had read so much) would begin, the trees thin out and we break through to the Bivouac hut. Kadison has been leading and I think his youthful enthusiasm has made sure we ascended the Staircase in very good time.

The Bivouac hut is approximately half way to the summit, and a good place for a rest, and just to sit and enjoy the alpine surrounds. There is also a water tank for emergency use, and toilet facilities. Soon after the hut, the trees begin to thin out, and the wind increases exponentially. It is obvious where the 2003 fires have raged across the mountain, leaving dead snow gums in patches, which are yet to regenerate. The exposed nature of the mountain above the tree line is bought starkly into reality as we reach the Gadsen memorial, built to commemorate the death of 3 walkers at this point in 1943. There is a strange feeling in the air at the memorial, as we pause to respect the sadness of the past, whilst feeling the heightened feeling of life that being at height in the crisp mountain air brings. A stark contrast.

We continue on, climbing up the track surrounded by alpine grasses and the occasional hardy wildflower. The snow poles lead the way now and soon the summit ridge comes into sight. A turn to the right takes us to the summit cairn, where we celebrate with lunch and the usual photos. The clouds are coming in fast now and it is very cold. We decide to follow our plan and descend via the Eskdale spur, also well marked. This is rocky at the top, and we had been told slightly easier than the Staircase, but I think much the same in difficulty.

We power down to the recently rebuilt Mitchell hut, the emergency supplies and stretchers inside a reminder of the serious side of alpine walking. From the bottom of the Eskdale Spur, it is a simple walk back to the base of the Staircase, or through to the camping ground. The total round trip is 6.5 hours but we did hurry a bit on the way back as we have decided to attempt Bimberi Peak on our way back home. Our knees remind us that going down can be harder than climbing up.

A challenging and beautiful climb, Bogong should be on everyone's climb list. Another State 8 in the bag.

Climbing Mount Feathertop (Unknown)

Elevation:  1,922 metres    Nearest towns:   Harrietville or Mount Hotham

Difficulty:  Medium             Date[s] climbed:  18/01/2015 and 12/11/2019    Location: Victoria    Author: Brian

You could knock me over with a Feather- top!

Mt. Feathertop is the second of our two back-to-back climbs, with Mt. Gingera being a warmup the previous day. Mt. Feathertop is a well-known climbing destination in Victoria’s north eastern snow fields located within the Alpine National Park and it's the second highest peak in Victoria.

History

Mt. Feathertop derives its name from the beautiful plumes of snow that accumulate along the steep ridge leading up to the summit. It was named Feathertop by two stockmen, Jim Brown and Jack Wells in 1851, who worked the local area. Ferdinand von Mueller was the first European to climb Mt. Feathertop in 1853. Of course, the Traditional Owners have been in this amazing area for many thousands of years and they are currently seeking acknowledgment of their rights.

Standing a majestic 1,922 metres, Mt. Feathertop is just 60 odd metres lower than the highest peak Mt. Bogong, which is nearby.

Warning

Mt. Feathertop is a very popular climb and you are likely to encounter a number of climbers sharing the experience. It is normally climbed outside the ski season which runs roughly June through October, depending on the season. It is a straightforward climb and easily achieved by average walkers/climbers. However, you need to heed the conditions as snow and the weather can have a huge impact on safety. People have died on this peak due to extreme weather conditions, falling through a plume and skiing accidents. We climbed via the Razorback and there is no water on that route.

Planning

We have climbed Mt. Feathertop on two occasions. First in January 2015 and again in November 2019. This writeup describes the more interesting latter climb. This trip is a two-peak exercise; first up Mt. Gingerra in the ACT and then Feathertop. There is plenty of information on the web about climbing options etc. We had considered a round trip via Harrietville however there is virtually no convenient transport back to Mt. Hotham out of season. Even though Australia is in the middle of a drought and enduring early bushfires we have come equipped with plenty of warm weather gear.

We have chosen to climb up and back via the Razorback, given we are overnighting on Mount Hotham at Mountain Dreaming Apartments and the transport limitations. These are really nice apartments and located behind the “General”, the general store and pub which provides basic goods and meals. Highly recommended.

Our drive route starts in Canberra, Cooma and down to the coast to Cann River and then up to Mt. Hotham via Omeo. A fabulous drive, spoiled only by a speeding ticket somewhere around Omeo. 104 k’s in a 100 zone. The Vic’s are sticklers for the no margin approach!

The Climb

We are very cosy in our apartments and decide on a first light departure by driving about 1k down the hill to the Diamantina Hut, which takes its name from the nearby Diamantina River. The track up the Razorback starts there. We have been buffeted all night by really strong winds which doesn’t bode well for a comfortable climb. It is well below zero when we drive off and we’re a little concerned by the high winds and wind-chill factor.

There are a few parking spots on the Great Alpine Road adjacent to the Hut, where we park. It is a clear morning however we have all of our layers on including gloves, long pants and beanies. It is bitterly cold. The track start point is easy to find and begins near a small info display.

The track runs roughly north right up to the summit however we are heading downhill for about a km before starting upwards. A reminder that it will be uphill at the finish. You have a choice of going around the first small hill via two branching tracks. We went out on the left and back on the alternate track. We recommend coming back via the right-hand option.

From here we can see the imposing summit of Feathertop, and true to its name it has quite a few feathers on the summit ridge. Something to look forward to, hopefully…. The track to the junction with the Bungalow Spur Track is approximately 9.5k. It is well formed and easy to follow unless you encounter a whiteout. In that case I would suggest considering aborting the climb.

The track is pretty much above the snowline all the way however there are plenty of shrubs and of course the ubiquitous snow gums here and there. You have a great vista pretty much all the way however there is little protection from the wind which is intensely cold. The term Razorback is a bit of a misnomer as there really is no section which sees you straddling a ridge. Graeme has seen some quartz and ever the geologist and optimist, he is fairly certain he will find a lump of gold. For me the real value is in the experience but concede a contribution to the forthcoming speeding fine would have been nice. Alas no gold is discovered.

The snow cloaked summit of Mt. Feathertop pops into view from time-to-time and adds to the anticipation of summiting. Very little of note along this section of the track other than the great views and we cruise the 9 odd km with the usual conversation topics that have become the hallmark of our climbing. A treat to be enveloped by this beautiful countryside whilst discussing the meaning of life and shares and family and boats and cows and all manner of wonderful topics, with your climbing partner.

We reach the Cross, the name of where the two tracks join. To our left Federation Hut pops into view about a km back towards Harrietville. A good place to hole up in inclement weather apparently. We have 1.5 k to summit. From here the track up is fully exposed, steep and very rocky. It is easy to follow however after 9 km it is a tough push not helped by the strong winds. We ascend steadily. Is it maturity or age that guides our pace?

The track stays to the left of the long procession of snow drifts which are on the south side of the mountain. Very icy and a reminder of the danger of walking out onto one of the “feathers”. Someone had that misfortune some time ago and sadly died! We are nearing the summit. The views are truly panoramic and definitely one of the best summit views in our State 16. A great reward for the effort involved, unlike some of our peaks which had no views at all. The summit is a small, open, tussocky knoll with plenty of room to wander around. There is a preliminary knoll which is probably only two metres lower so you are obliged to walk the last two hundred metres to properly summit. A nice moment to reflect on our achievement. Two State 16 peaks in three days!

The special handshake, customary pics and Graeme takes a panorama video. We drink in the views and work out which peak is Bogong. There are many peaks but we are confident we have identified it. We encounter that strange optical phenomena where it appears there are a number of peaks on the horizon that are higher than us. Clearly not true.

We don’t linger. In spite of it being a fabulous spot to have lunch the wind and cold are such that we decide to return to the Cross to stop for food. It’s a relief to sit down on a nice grassy spot out of the wind and we enjoy lunch. A solitary climber passes us on his way to the summit dressed in just shorts and a T shirt. He is young but is he stupid? We watch his progress and he appears to be travelling well. Not very sensible, but he is doing his thing.

Time to head back and we retrace our steps back towards Diamantina Hut. We are both a tad weary and it is always a surprise to find that there are upwards sections on the return journey. Warming up we discard a couple of layers. We are nearly back and as mentioned earlier, are confronted with the choice of alternative tracks around the last upwards section. Rather than repeating our outwards path we take the left track. Hmm, it seems to go on forever even though it doesn’t climb as high as the other track. Wrong decision. Foot sore we scale the last 50 metres up to the car and with mutual grins happily get into the car and drive back to the comforts of the General.

Twenty-two k’s round trip roughly; not hugely challenging, but a truly delightful climb. Mt. Feathertop rates amongst our favourite climbs.

Afterword

Whilst Graeme and I are ensconced on Mt. Hotham, experiencing sub-zero temperatures, back home on the Central Coast it’s very different as the bushfires start to move ever closer to our property. I have called Tanya and she is quite distressed. It is very concerning as we are at least 10 hours away and getting home would mean driving all night. Tanya insists we spend the night at Hotham but I can sense she is anxious. We make an early start the following morning. It has snowed during the night and the wind is punishing. It is minus 10 degrees! What a paradox this country is.