Climbing Mount Zeil (Urlatherrke)

Elevation:  1,531 metres      Nearest town.  Alice Springs

Difficulty:  Hard                     Date[s] climbed:  24 Sept, 2009    Location:  N.T.    Author: Graeme

                                                                        The grinning Brian and Graeme on top. The hard part is yet to come!

Ed. Climbing Mount Zeil was our most challenging State 8 climb. It could easily have been our last! As of writing we are trying to verify whether Mount Zeil should be renamed Mount Heuglin!  It's a great (long) read. Persevere.

Mount Zeil is located at the western end of the MacDonnell Range in the Northern Territory and is very remote. It is the highest mountain west of the Great Dividing Range. In 2009, after much research and contact with Chris Day (the N T chief district ranger), we decided to make our attempt from the NW end, via Glen Helen station and the Dashwood Bore. Approval was required to cross Glen Helen, although there are no gates. In 2020, Glen Helen, and the adjacent Narwietooma and Derwent Stations were purchased by “Hale River Holdings”, and approvals may be needed to cross.

(The previous owners of Narwietooma Station kept a small holding at the base of Mt. Zeil, including an airstrip, and have recently opened the Mt Zeil Wilderness Park, with the aim of allowing people a feeling of staying in the remote outback, along with access to climb Mt. Zeil. This is now an alternative and attractive option to our route)

Warnings

Mount Zeil is in an extremely remote and inhospitable area. The climb is long and can be dangerous as there is no track to follow and the rock base is loose. You will spend ten hours at the best, trying to keep upright as the mountain moves under you. The spinifex is horrendous, but after a couple of hours trying to maintain a footing on the loose surface, stepping on the edges of the spinifex seems to at least guarantee some purchase underfoot, notwithstanding getting spiked. After a while, you forget the spikes.

There is no water anywhere on the mountain, and temperatures, even in the cooler months will possibly reach 35 degrees. In desert regions, it is recommended that you drink 1 litre of water per hour of exertion, but 10 litres equals 10 kilograms and you will not want to carry that amount considering the added weight of emergency kit, satellite phone, lunch, snacks, and layers of clothing including a jacket. We took 5 litres each, and a couple of energy drinks, and ended up low on water and severely dehydrated.

Only well prepared and experienced climbers should attempt this climb. It can be done in one long day, as we did, but it’s probably safer to camp and climb. Take a satellite phone and don’t try this one solo. Medivac support if needed will likely have to come from Alice Springs, and travel insurance should be seriously considered.

History

Mount Zeil has an interesting and elusive history. The indigenous people named it “Urlatherrke”, after the Yeperenye caterpillar. However, the correct naming of Mount Zeil is still controversial and subject to ongoing resolution. The name Zeil was first used in a footnote in Ernest Giles “Geographic Travels in Central Australia, Page 68”. The footnote, written by Baron Ferdinand von Mueller states:

“On reference to the accompanying map it will be observed, that one of the culminating points in the MacDonnell Range, discovered during this expedition, was named Mount Sonder, in honour of Dr Will. Otto Sonder of Hamburg, who largely elucidated the marine algae of Australia, and who also much contributed towards the knowledge of the land plants, particularly of the South-western portion of our continent. Two other high mountains in the same range were dedicated to Count Zeil and Baron von Heuglin, who distinguished themselves by recent geographic explorations in Spitzbergen, the latter also by his extensive zoologic researches in North Africa - F.v.M.”

It seems that Baron von Mueller gave the names to Mount Zeil, Mount Sonder and Mount Heuglin at that time. In a letter to Sir Henry Ayres, the South Australian chief secretary, von Mueller discusses Giles expedition and states:

 “some of the new mountains, and one of the watercourses remained unnamed, the new geographic appellations to be chosen by the South Australian authorities.”

The printed maps in “Geographic Travels in Central Australia” show Mt Sonder, Mt Zeil, Mt Heuglin, and Haasts Bluff, with the Finke River originating between Mt Sonder and Mt Zeil where today Redbank gorge sits. However, on map PL 2902/1 published by the Adelaide Surveyor Generals office in 1876 [based on Giles], only Mt Sonder is shown. It is interesting on reading Giles original journal, that he was unable to penetrate the South MacDonnell Range, being turned westward by a flooded gorge (seemingly south of where Glen Helen gorge is today). He climbed a nearby hill, “And could see to the North was the main chain, composed for the most of high mounts…”

So, Giles, who was an explorer and not a surveyor, did not go anywhere near where Mount Zeil stands today! 

If he saw it at all, it would have been as an indistinct high point above what is today Mt. Razorback. The name Mount Zeil was given to one of the “high mounts” next to Mt Sonder and the Redbank creek, in the position where Mt Razorback stands today. Mt Heuglin was further to the west. Tietkens, who accompanied Giles on his second expedition, went back to the MacDonnell’s in his expedition of 1889 (Journal of the Central Australian Exploring Expedition, 1889). By this stage, he was a qualified surveyor, and so his bearings are far more reliable than Giles. He climbed, “Mt Razorback” on April 2nd 1889 and took readings to Zeil” (of Giles) and “Sender” (Sonder)

His Zeil reading is strange, but “Sender” is spot on. Then on April 4th, he ascended Mt. Sonder and took readings to Mt. Razorback, Mt. Zeil, and Haasts Bluff. These readings correlate well with the established positions of these mountains today. But Mt Heuglin has disappeared. To totally confuse the scene, in 1894, the Horn expedition went through the area. The Horn expedition was an interesting concept, as command had been set up as a democracy, with no leader and decisions to be made by consensus. However, Chas Winnecke was entrusted with the safety of the expedition. Winnecke was a surveyor and geologist, and pedantic with his readings. On Monday June 25 1894, he took bearings from a waterhole named “Andantompantie”.

“From here Mt Heuglin bears 51 Deg 50’ distant fourteen and a half miles, Mount Zeil 86 Deg 30’ distant 15 miles, and Mount Sonder 93 Deg 30’ distant twenty-four miles. The former two mountains have been transposed on several charts, and Mount Zeil has been locally renamed Mount Razorback; I cannot, however, adopt these erroneous alterations.”

The question is, what were the alterations based upon? Winnecke must have had latitude and longitude positions, and previous bearings for Mt. Zeil and Mt. Heuglin, but these seem lost in time. On page 46 of his journal, he states:

“Computed the altitude of various mountains……… I have properly rearranged the names of several hills, expunged the name of Mt Razorback, which is Giles Mount Zeil, and dedicated the high mountain west of Mount Heuglin, visited by me in 1879, Mount Chewings.” 

There seems no doubt, the original Mount Zeil (of Giles), was where Mt Razorback is today. Today’s Mount Zeil was originally named Mt. Heuglin, and Heuglin was Mount Chewings. Somehow, Winnecke’s changes were not taken up; Mount Heuglin became Mount Zeil, and poor Mr. Chewings lost his mountain. However, a range, the Chewings Range, was named after him. The names of Mount Zeil and Mount Heuglin were only gazetted on 5/8/1959 (NTG34), as was Mt. Giles. In 1956, Pastor P. A. Scherer of Hermannsburg mission wrote to the Director of National Mapping, Canberra, “with information on a number of central Australian features”. (The mountains in question)

I have attempted to find copies of Scherer’s letters, but there appears to be a reluctance to release the information. Correspondence obviously occurred, and Mt. Zeil was subsequently gazetted in 1959. Any help would be appreciated in finding this lost detail. So, in summary, a Mount Zeil was named (probably by Baron von Mueller after Giles 1872 expedition), but it was in the position now named Mount Razorback. Mount Zeil’s name was only confirmed in its present position after it was gazetted in 1959, and Mount Heuglin moved (and reduced in prominence and importance), to its present position. Mountains seem to move (see history of Mount Kosciuszko and Mount Townsend)

                                       But I know we climbed the highest mountain…… which was the objective all along.

The Climb

Zeil is to be my first of the State 8. Brian has asked my son Sam to accompany him, his wife Tanya, and Son Kadison on a trip to climb Mount Woodroffe in South Australia. Sam and Kad are great friends, but obviously my wife Cate and I are intrigued as to what this is all about. A mountain? and in Central Australia. What could possibly go wrong….? So, we begin the discussion, and I am introduced to the State 8. Brian has already climbed a couple, and during the discussions, Cate and I decide we might go along for the trip to Woodroffe. Brian has a brilliant business past, and somehow managed diplomatically to bend the trip details as, “there is a small mountain in the Northern Territory named Zeil that is part of this thing called the State 8 and just perhaps the two of us could do this first”.

We will then meet Cate, Tanya, Kad and Sam at Uluru, where we will start our Mt. Woodroffe trip. So, the planning began. Brian had already researched Zeil extensively and I credit him with all the planning and route decisions. However, Zeil is not a mountain to undertake solo… and it is certain that some faith in your climbing partner is required. But it turns out that Brian is a risk taker, and our journey toward the State 8 (and without knowing it at the time, the State 16) begins.

The plan is for Brian and I to fly to Alice Springs where we will be based for two nights and then drive to Uluru to meet Cate, Tanya, Kad and Sam. Zeil’s defences are working overtime, as the biggest dust storm to hit Sydney in a century closes Sydney airport for 4 hours and delays our flight to Alice Springs. We finally depart and collect our 4WD late in the day, but with enough time to pick up some necessary supplies, including food for the climb, lots of water, and the essential satellite phone for safety. An early night, as we hope to climb Zeil the next day.

Our chosen route to Zeil is via the Tanami Road, left onto Kintore Road and then hopefully somehow find the turn through Glen Helen station to the Dashwood bore. We leave Alice Springs around 3 AM, anticipating the distance to be around 220 km, hoping to be at the Dashwood turn at dawn as we knew we would need daylight to find our way from there. As Brian has researched the route, he acts as navigator on the way out as I drive. This sharing of duties proves fortuitous (at least for me). We have no problems finding the way, although we are delayed considerably by having to avoid seemingly endless Kangaroos en route. Finally, we turn onto the Dashwood turn, and stop to take early light pictures. If you go in this way, make sure you note your entrance to the Dashwood, as on return, it is almost impossible to find. (First mistake, more later)

Across the Dashwood at the bore and across scrubby plains and we are at the base of Zeil. We are both keen to begin the climb and so drive as close as possible to where we have planned to start (plots on Google Earth mainly) We park the 4WD in the shade of a large tree (mistake number 2) and decide on equipment and supplies to take. Brian carries the Sat phone, but boy my pack feels heavy. Four litres of water each and a couple of “Up and Go’s” should do… (mistake number 3). So, the climb begins.

You cannot see the summit of Zeil from the western end, and in fact you have to partially climb the mountain 4 times, as each false summit takes you higher, but then you need to descend partially before the next “up”. So, we rely on compass and GPS bearings to start the route. We decide to climb high initially, hoping to see the route ahead. This leads to us climbing too far to the west, and having to descend considerably before starting up to the next false summit. The crumbling rock and huge spinifex warn you of the ordeal ahead, but each summit leads to new hope. “We must be close to the top” I tell Brian at least 3 times, but after 3 hours of climbing and dodging spinifex, the real summit shows itself ever so high over the distant horizon, at least 2 hours away. This is the first climb of my attempt at the State 8, and I look at Brian, slightly appalled. What have I got into? I think fleetingly. Brian however, is looking up at the mountain with a steely stare as if to say, “bring it on”.

We continue. The climb is long and hard in 35-degree heat, and I know we are both feeling the effort when Brian decides to show me how to use the satellite phone, “in case I don’t make it and you have to ring” … (mistake 4) To our amazement we find small Cycad palms, and then a last steep scramble to the top. We have made it, and the view makes it all more than worthwhile. On the summit is a cairn, with a book to commemorate climbers. It also has a note from the helicopter pilot who flies to the summit to service some electrical equipment there. In his opinion, we (the climbers) are crazy!!! Book signed, and Brian cranks up the Sat phone and we speak to Tanya and Cate, euphoric that we have achieved the first part of our plan. Lunch on the summit; in one of Australia’s, if not the worlds, more isolated places! The “Up and Go” tastes wonderful, and then time constraints mean it is time to descend.

On the climb up, we aimed high and tried to stick to the ridge tops, although this meant wasting altitude as we climbed false summit after false summit. On the way down, we decide to be clever and skirt around some of the tops. This proves to be mistake number 5, as walking across steep slopes with crumbling rock and huge spinifex is a nightmare. The heat has become appalling. We have rationed water on the climb up to two litres, but by this stage we are dehydrated, overheating and struggling with leg cramps. There is no shade of any kind on the mountain and although we are both still moving well, we decide to descend an earlier gully to the West, in order to miss a couple of false summits, and to reach the base earlier. Coming down turns out to be as hard or harder than climbing up, as the rock lets go under any pressure, and the descent turns into a battle to stay upright. Half way down we drop into and follow a steep, dry creek bed and find the first shade we have seen all day, both feeling the effects of the heat and the pummelling our legs have taken on the descent. I think of early explorers, who failed to survive this harsh environment, and have a better understanding why.

After a short rest sitting in a rare, putrid, shallow water hole, splashing the gross liquid on our faces to assuage the heat, Brian asks whether I can get up, and I have to consider the answer. But we do.

That test passed, we finally reach the base, and a theoretically short 5 km around to the car. I have little water left, and the more experienced Brian a little more, but we have litres in the 4WD. Now where is this car? We have cleverly parked it under a tree, and now, tired and dehydrated after a ten hour climb, with evening falling rapidly, we can’t find it! (See mistake number 2) Eventually Brian realises we can track it on the GPS, and I independently find the tyre tracks we made on the way in. In the failing light Brian’s gaze is glued to the diminutive screen of the GPS and he stumbles into a hidden stump hole and gashes his leg. Zeil continues to punish us. And finally, the car appears, a quite emotive moment. Our stored food and water feel like lifesavers, and possibly are. As I had driven out, it is Brian's turn to drive home. This is fortunate, as my legs are cramping badly, and we would probably have been in first gear all the way home if I had to drive.

So, we begin our return without a glance back at our nemesis; it is now nearly dark, however when leaving Zeil, the landmarks are not as obvious as when coming in. (like a huge mountain to aim at). We drive through creeks and an occasional tree or two; Brian has noticed my glanced alarm at our skirmish with the trees, but we are desperate to get back to familiar territory. We finally find the Dashwood bore. On crossing the Dashwood there is no track visible on the other side and we spend a frustrating and increasingly alarming hour driving in circles and hitting dead ends, trying to find it. Finally, we follow what appears to be a track going in the correct direction, and we are back on the route to Alice Springs. Brian describes it as one of the hardest drives he has had to do, but he gets us back to the motel around midnight. A 21-hour round trip! We have done it, but as we departed, I think Zeil released an acknowledging smile for the pain it has demanded as its due.

Apologies to Chris at Yulara resort who received the full brunt of our wives’ anger when they assumed that we were “dead in a ditch” when we weren’t at the airport to meet them as arranged.

Mount Zeil is a hard climb, and a potentially dangerous one. It can be done in one day, but it would be far better to overnight and enjoy the isolation and the moment. Take plenty of water as there is none to be found on the mountain, enjoy the challenge, because it will test you.